Sometimes when Si and I don't show up for Saturday rides, or for the Monterey Ride, it is because we have gone on an adventure to check out another part of the world via bicycle. Such was the case this September. This time we stayed in the country and joined with a Sierra Club ride for a tour of western Pennsylvania and Maryland.
We met at a designated site in Washington, DC, and a shuttle bus took us to Little Boston, PA, just outside of Pittsburgh. Our group of sixteen set out on the Great Allegheny Passageway, formerly the rail bed for the Western Maryland Railway. This limestone path took us through the coal mining country. Along the way, we had short lectures regarding the local history, current coal mining activity and the efforts to clean up the rivers, primarily the Youghiogheny River. The "Yock" now supports a revitalized fish population and is safe for activities such as white water rafting. The towns along the way were sleepy, and as wonderful as the trail is, bicyclists and hikers cannot begin to provide for the lost income of the coal mining industry.
Eventually, we entered Ohiopyle State Park and we were surrounded by woods and waterfalls. Outside of the village of Ohiopyle, we took a side trip to Falling Water, one of the most acclaimed houses of the architect, Frank Lloyd Wright. The house was a clear indication of Wright's contempt for tall people, anyone taller than his 5'6" (even though he designed that house for a man of 6 feet, who could barely clear some of the ceilings!) The house is actually built in a stream-bed, right over the water. The views from inside were spectacular, but the house appears to be a nightmare for plugging the leaks. It is true to his concept of bringing the outdoors into the inside of the dwelling.
The GAP continued with a steady climb to the Eastern Continental Divide, at about 2800 feet. All waters on the western side flow toward the Gulf of Mexico via the Mississippi, and all waters on the eastern side flow into the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic. The descent was a relatively rapid drop to 600 feet. It was my really big birthday, so I felt fantastic flying down the hill upright, dragging a week's paraphernalia in a set of panniers.
At the town of Cumberland, Maryland, we ended the GAP, and started on the adjoining trail, along the C&O Canal. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal was the dream of George Washington, when he was a young surveyor. He wished to connect the Chesapeake Bay to the forks of the Ohio River, and have an open waterway all the way to New Orleans.
The canal followed the Potomac River through Maryland. The hiking/biking trail is the original path where the mules walked while towing the barges. For historical purposes, and lack of money, the trail is not very well maintained, and consists of dirt and gravel. Original cobblestones have surfaced, and there is plenty of soft mud on a rainy day.
Our Bike Friday road bikes, outfitted with wider tires met their match. Along the way we viewed the original locks, aqueducts, and lock houses. At one site, the complete lock had been restored, and we were given a demonstration by the site's park ranger.
We also passed through the PawPaw Tunnel. The tunnel was a walk-through only. Inside is one narrow path, with a railing separating you from a deep, slimey green canal. There are no lights and it is 3100 feet long. Creepy, and it looked like a good place to hide the body for the perfect crime.
Stops along the C&O Canal were made at Antietam Battlefield, site of the bloodiest single-day battle in American history, with 23,000 casualties. It is now quiet fields of corn and pastures, and we noted the roads are used frequently by cyclists. There was a century ride plotted out for the next day. Now, it is safe.
Next day was a side trip to Harper's Ferry, West Virginia. The final night we took a ferry boat to Leesburg, Virginia for the overnight. The only cycling we were able to do in VA was Jane's short ride down the hallway of the motel to the elevator!
vBack on the trail for the final day and the ride to DC. As one gets closer to DC, the bike and foot traffic increases. There were moments when "passing on the left" appeared to not be heard, and it is a miracle one of us didn't land in the drink.Eventually, we made our way to the Georgetown trailhead. There is a statue of former Supreme Court Justice, William O, Douglas, the man responsible for saving the C&O Trail, and making it part of the National Park system. After a pass in front of the Lincoln Monument and a final stop in front of Washington Monument, we each went our separate ways. Great trip, 350 miles on the odometer.
More of Jane and Si's photos are here.